Springcare ft. (mainly) Biologique Recherche
The other day, I dreamt that I was at dinner, indoor and maskless. There weren’t any ugly clear dividers between tables, and I was sitting close enough to the people at the next table to hear their (very vague) conversation. The venue was Alta in the West Village: second floor, near the window in the back - the first table at Alta I ever sat at. I was in heels. My friends and I were sharing appetizers. Our server didn’t have to stand at a 6-foot distance from us to take orders. We joked. We laughed. It was the perfect dinner. Just like old times. And then I woke up in absolute panic over the fact that I wasn’t wearing a mask. And then I realized: it was only just a dream (yes, that’s a Nelly reference).
But you know what’s not a dream? warmer weather. and sunnier days. FaceTiming your friends and excitedly gushing about the vaccine. The feeling when you finally get yourself in a proper Spring outfit. Reading by your window. Longer days. Sipping iced lattes outside. The anticipation of going back to life. Also that dinner at Alta hopefully this summer.
In the meantime, I’ve been finding comfort in the obvious: skincare, AKA me and all the textures of gels, creams, and serums, together in my room with burning candles, incense, and music. That’s bliss.
On that note, this post is dedicated to my current, full-on skincare routine aka The Works - everything I do for my face apart from getting my regular facials with my amazing aesthetician Andrew (www.skinbyask.com). Hopefully I can go back to that again soon, but for now, take a moment, get your tea, coffee, or Harmless Harvest. This is extra extra.
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For those of you who want to settle in and enjoy the photographs I’ve painstakingly taken for this, all the ~tips and tricks, etc., you can continue scrolling. For anyone who is more TL;DR, I’ve very considerately made a little snapshot of my current routine below, tailored to my skin’s needs for a transition from cold to warm weather. To be fair, I probably won’t be posting anything skincare related for a while after this - I’ve been using Biologique Recherche (BR) as my primary skincare line for the past 4 years at this point and that’s not changing. It’s hard to get distracted once you’ve found the Holy Grail, ya know? Per Andrew’s recommendations (who I will be referring to a lot here since he’s taught me everything I know), I’ve sprinkled in products from Environ, SkinBetter, and Meder Beauty as needed and based on the season, and will be sharing those as well. My routine at this point is more focused on skincare tools/tech, methods of application, and looking out for updated formulas as BR continues to build on its amazing line. I do hope that this is helpful for anyone who is not familiar with BR and is looking into their products, or otherwise as a way to find rhythm and bliss in your own skincare routine.
P.S. you can click on each image and it will open up on a larger Lightbox.
PPS: Prices are current and reflected for the sizes I typically buy.
PPPS: I am not an aesthetician, dermatologist, or a skincare professional - this is just a snapshot of what I’ve been doing, what works for me, and what’s out there, so please please speak with a professional before using anything TYVM.
Prep: I enjoy doing my skincare both in the morning and at night. However, nighttime skincare undeniably feels more luxurious and should be treated as such.
I usually do “The Works” on Friday, Saturday, and Sunday evenings - I like to do my routine mindfully, with intention, focus, blah blah blah you get it. But really, I hate doing my skincare when I’m distracted or as an afterthought. It’s the only time in the day when I can totally tune everything else out.
Around 8 PM or so, I like to turn off all the ceiling lights in my apartment and keep only the soft, dim lamps on, and a few burning candles. This is a very important precursor for ultimate relaxation, which I top off by lighting my new favorite incense sticks by Yield Design Co., specifically, the Palo Santo hemp-derived, CBD-infused ones. Seriously, these have changed my life. Once that’s done, I’m ready to get my hands dirty (well, by dirty I mean clean, but you know what I mean).
Step 1: The Cleanse
I am currently washing my face with Biologique Recherche’s Lait VIP O2 or Lait U. I don’t do a double cleanse in the way most people do i.e. using two different cleansers. I just spend extra time massaging my cleanser into my skin and then wipe off with a soft washcloth using lukewarm water. If I feel I need another go at it, I’ll do a second massage with the same cleanser and wipe off. On the occasion I wear heavier eye makeup, I use Glossier’s Milky Jelly Cleanser on my eyes only - it’s the quickest way to remove eye makeup without tugging and stressing your eyes out.
Over the course of a year, I switch up my face cleanser between BR’s Lait U (spring, summer) and Lait EV (fall, winter), and I keep VIP O2 all year round. All of the BR cleansers are in the cleansing milk category, and when used right, work wonders. These are non-stripping, ultra hydrating cleansers. I find it funny when people say they love feeling the “tight” sensation after washing their face - that to me just signals a stripping face wash. I love the BR cleansers because they leave your skin feeling supple and clean, but not stripped. Lait U is typically recommended by aestheticians for all skin types - its plant oil formulation makes it gentle but effective. It’s pretty much the overall-satisfying cleanser for everyone. Lait VIP O2 offers extra - as detailed on the Biologique Recherche website, this is “the anti-pollution cleanser.” Lait VIP O2 works to purify the skin of polluting particles, and offers a deeper cleanse. This is the perfect cleanser for those of us living in cities, super dry climates, etc. I personally love VIP O2 after a long session at the gym or after a flight. What makes VIP O2 even more exciting is that it’s formulated with lactic acid, salicylic acid, niacinamide, sodium hyaluronate (hyaluronic acid), and squalane (this particular ingredient is in Lait U too). Basically, Lait VIP O2 has all your buzzy skincare ingredients. However, it’s not just the inclusion of all these ingredients that makes the cleanser so good - there are a ton of cleansers out there with peptides, hyaluronic acid, etc. etc. - it’s the concentration and formula that makes different products with the same ingredients more or less effective, and BR’s formulas hit continuous home runs.
Step 2: P50 or Nothing
There is no doubt at this point that BR’s Lotion P50 (aka THE toner) is a must-have for skincare aficionados and that it works. P50 was the first BR product I tried and it completely changed my skin. Using it on a regular basis will tremendously impact not only how your skin looks, but also how it feels, really deep down. No matter what anyone tells you, there is nothing like Lotion P50 except the thing itself, so if you’re looking for real skin progress, don’t avoid biting the bullet. Trust me, it smells weird at first but you get used to it, and it really doesn’t matter when it starts making your skin look the best it can be. Also, Madonna and the Olsen Twins are apparently huge fans. Second Also, toner is necessary, and this one is also a chemical exfoliant.
Lotion P50 comes in six variations - it’s important to get matched to P50 by an aesthetician or BR expert at a spa that sells their products because each P50 is tailored to very specific skin needs. You may also want to switch it up based on season, if your skin needs that. I’ve heard a lot of people say they want the “most effective” or “most intense” one because their skin is “so messed up” - let me put it straight: every version of P50 is equally effective, even the gentle P50W for sensitive skin. This isn’t a “my skin can take it so I’ll go with the most intense one” situation - you want the right one for you, and most people don’t know their skin as well as they think. Before I started using BR, I didn’t have any major skin issues - I had normal combination skin, maybe a spot here or two, but that was pretty much it. I wanted to prevent wrinkles, combat some oiliness in the summer, blah blah. After I started to get proper facials and consults, I learned that my skin was largely dehydrated (even though it looked “glowy”so I never thought it would be), and used the recommendations by professionals to combat that. I’ve never gone back! If you want a mini breakdown of the different P50s, I recommend this post by Into The Gloss, and of course, the Biologique Recherche website.
I currently use Lotion P50 PIGM 400 (daytime) and Lotion P50 1970 (nighttime). I tend to scar easily, so PIGM 400 is my go-to because it fades pigmentation basically overnight and is insanely brightening. It’s the perfect formula to wake up the face with in the morning. For nighttime, I use the original P50 1970 aka “the OG.” To be honest, I’ve never gotten redness or stinging by using P50 1970 (or any of the other formulas), and I didn’t go through a purging phase when I first started either. However, it’s completely normal for skin to go through that because P50 is meant to exfoliate, purify, and balance.
The best thing about these cult-favorite toners? They don’t strip your skin, leaving it clean yet hydrated, just like the cleansers.
Step 4: ZIIP or CIT (Collagen Induction Treatment)
Before I say anything else, there are two rules I stick to when it comes to my ZIIP and Environ’s CIT Micro-needling devices: 1) I never use both in the same night, and 2) if I use the micro-needler at night, I do not use ZIIP the next morning (but vice versa is OK). Both are powerful tools, and when I microneedle, my skin needs to rest at least a full day before I can ZIIP because otherwise it kinda burns. So, I really suggest staggering them.
The ZIIP is a handheld, wireless, app-operated beauty device that uses both nanocurrent and microcurrents to sculpt and treat your neck and face for various concerns including fine lines, wrinkles, acne, hyperpigmentation, pores, and loss of firmness - it’s much more than a fun tool. It’s also very simple to use - I’ll slather on one of their gels all over my face and neck. Side note on the gels: the Golden gel is my favorite, it’s formulated with 24-karat gold which helps to “strengthen and increase collagen production” and a combination of peptides. But, all the gels are fantastic and have a bottle of each - you can read about all of them on the ZIIP website here.
Once I have my gel on, I chose my treatment on ZIIP’s handy dandy phone app, sync the device, and get ZIIP-ing. Because I’ve been using my ZIIP for a few years now, I have most of the treatments memorized and don’t have to watch the instructional video while doing it, but you can watch the treatment video and follow along to creator/aesthetician Melanie Simon showing you the motions in the most aesthetically-pleasing lighting. The post treatment guarantees include: much hydration, serious glow, insane lift (ESPECIALLY if you do the “Instant Gratification” treatment).
Once I’m done with my ZIIP treatment, I wash off the conductive gel and prepare for a calming mask (this is a cue for you to either head on over to Step 5, or read about the microneedler below).
My Environ Cosmetic Gold-Roll CIT (click!) is obviously the swankiest tool on my vanity. I mean, this is beauty materialized in a stick of 14-karat gold, highest-grade surgical stainless steel topped off with 260 ultra-fine needles. In sum: this is an aesthetically-pleasing microneedling tool that allows your skincare products to dive deeper into the layers of your skin. It’s freakin’ amazing - whenever I use this, I never wake up with even the slightest film of skincare “residue” on my face the next day.
Suggested use: once you’re done toning, roll over small portions of your face and neck for 3-5 minutes on each section. PSA - be gentle on your neck, I’ve gotten a bit lazy/impatient and dragged it on my neck at times and that burn ain’t fun. Also fun tip that my aesthetician taught me - you can use this on your lips - they’ll stay plump. START NOW.
The gold-roll comes with a cleaning solution that you absolutely should buy to prevent bacterial growth. The site suggests using the solution to clean the instrument once a week and using warm water otherwise before and after use, but I usually use the cleaning solution, then rinse under warm water, let it completely dry and then roll every time I use it. Sanitation first!
Step 5: Masques
First and foremost, this is technically Step 4 if I’m microneedling - I typically do a creme or “wash off” mask before microneedling because I just don’t want to be pulling/washing my face after running the needles over it. Otherwise, I always do a sheet mask after microneedling because 1) the skin is primed for better absorption and 2) it’s calming! Otherwise, I don’t have any real rhyme or reason as to which face mask I choose to use on any given day when I’m not doing my full-on skincare routine, but I typically do a creme mask 1-2x a week, and use a sheet mask 1-2 a week. Some people mask way more than that but hey, I get lazy too. To make these easier on the eyes, I’ve listed the masks I currently have on rotation below, all with clickable links for further reading.
Biologique Recherche Masque Visolastine +
This mask is good for both morning and nighttime use because it’s all hydration and moisturization. Visolastine + is a great way to either prep your skin for the day, to get that smooth, hydrated “canvas.” It’s also fantastic to just calm your skin down after a long day. I love the texture of this mask because it’s super lipid-y (excuse the amateur description but it really does feels lipid-y) - it’s creamy, smooth, and cool to the touch. For someone with dehydrated skin like me, this is a must have because it immediately brightens and plumps the surface layer of your skin.
Biologique Recherche Creme Masque Vernix
The only way I can describe Masque Vernix is that it’s kind of like a premium luxury deluxe edition of Visolastine +. This is a real treat and because it’s richer than Visolastine +, I don’t use it on the daily (although I wish I could). For a little background, vernix is the white, creamy, naturally-occurring biofilm that covers the skin of a newborn, and that’s the kinda-ew-but-pretty -damn-beautiful inspo behind Masque Vernix. This mask is formulated with lipids, peptides, proteins and fatty emollients which help repair, protect, and truly revitalize your skin. I’ve used this to heal my skin after I stupidly “burnt” it once when I first did not know to not use ZIIP after microeneedling and it repaired my face and neck overnight. I wish I could use this all over my body.
Biologique Recherche Masque VIP O2
Just like it’s namesake face wash, VIP O2 works to oxygenate and detoxify your skin. It’s a powerful mask and great for anyone living in polluted urban cities. I like to use VIP O2 once a week, especially when I was regularly going to the gym pre-COVID. You can feel it sucking the gunk out of your face. The best part is washing it off to reveal blinding brightness (really though).
Biologique Recherche Masque Creme Biofixine
Masque Creme Biofixine is a toning, tightening, and anti-wrinkle mask, and comes at a steep price for good reason. BR makes this both as a mask and a moisturizer, and when used regularly, it works wonders. Now, I don’t have wrinkles quite yet, more like fine lines (especially laugh lines), so I use Biofixine here and there. While it is recommended for more mature skin, it’s also great for dehydrated skin regardless of age. It is also tightening without that “I’m sucking the life out of you” feeling so while your skin will feel “pulled together” and lifted after using this, it won’t be thirsty a f.
Meder Beauty Science Face Slimming LIPO Oval Masque
Alright, these masks changed my life. I was introduced to the Meder LIPO Oval Masque recently by my aesthetician and these are fantastic for when you’ve 1) had way too much sodium in a day and want to de-puff your face, and 2) for any other time. If I could, I’d use these every other day but that would be so extra even for me. Because I’m not a skincare professional, I can’t explain the technicalities behind how this works so I highly recommend clicking above to read more, and skimming the excerpt below from my aesthetician’s website, which was the most comprehensive description I could find:
“Face-slimming Lipo-Oval Mask fights facial puffiness, malar bags and double chin, re-sculpting face and helping restore
a fresh look. A stretchy mask made of golden bamboo fibre soaked with active gel provides active fat-splitting effect, reduces
puffiness, eliminates blotches and uneven skin tone, calms and moisturises the skin. Caffeine enhances fat splitting and reduces
local fat depots.
The extract of Chinese yam helps maintain the skin’s elasticity during weight loss and alleviates hormone-dependent changes.
Powerful capillary strengthening complex (escin, butcher’s broom, horse chestnut and centella asiatica extracts) restores
microcirculation, drains excessive liquid, brings back capillary elasticity. Amino-acid Arginine helps restore the resilience of deep
facial tissue and strengthens muscle fibre.”
Take a break from spending your money on SK-II and random fun-feeling sheet masks that don’t really do much besides just that - feel fun. First, these are super cool because they have ear slips - the mask goes under your chin, and pulls up to go around your ears so your entire face gets covered in a continuous bandage of powerful ingredients. Second, they work like crazy. If I have a week where I don’t do my ZIIP out of laziness and the absolute minimum I can do is a mask, I use these. My jawline thanks me for it. Even my nose slims down in the 15-20 minutes I use these. Don’t wait on ‘em.
Sidenote: use freezer-cold spoons or BR Cryo Sticks while marinating in these masks. Ultimate lift results guaranteed.
Step 6: Serums
Ah, where to begin with serums. I’ve used a good amount of BR serums over the years and one thing I can say is that when it comes to serums (BR or otherwise), more is not always better, and finding the right serums for your skin is the single most important thing you can do for it.
Before I go any further, I have to make this clear - not everyone cares for preventative skincare - i.e. combatting wrinkles, collagen loss, lipid and tone loss, etc., and that’s OK. I do, hence the diligence and focus on what my products do for me longterm, and also why I don’t switch up what works for me.
The major difference between BR serums and serums you can pick up at Sephora or another department store is the efficacy and longterm return - BR serums are powerful and are really meant for those of us who are looking for more than just a “good for today” skincare routine. The Key Point: BR’s authentic serums (the ones that cone in those beautiful pharmaceutical-esque bottles pup there) contain nothing but active ingredients. Their targeted serums, which are designed to combat more temporary and/or specific skin imbalances, are similar in that they are highly concentrated and formulated for quick results.
I typically rotate between 3-4 serums for daytime and nighttime separately, with about 2 serums kept “on hand” for “as-needed” use. Currently, my daytime skincare consists of Serums Amniotique and Elastine all over, Dermopore for my T-Zone, and serum Placenta, for when I need it (like the time I got the craziest maskne last summer and used Placenta to vanish it in 2 days, or my under eye bags). For nighttime, I use Serum A-Glyca, Elastine, Amniotique and Matriciel Visage. For spots: Complexe Iribiol.
The thing I love about BR serums is that once you’re matched by a professional, you don’t have to play scientist - no more wondering if that retinol is going to burn your skin off or if that Vitamin C is enough or if that hyaluronic acid serum formula is really stable enough to have any impact on your skin whatsoever.
I only have good things to say about all the BR serums I’ve used, but I’m going to be focusing on Amniotique, Serum A-Glyca, and Matriciel Visage here. I’ve used these serums all year round, for a few years on and off depending on season, and they are the most rewarding when it comes to immediate results.
You know who uses Serum A-Glyca? Victoria Beckham. You know whose inner and outer radiance I would love to mimic when I’m also 46? Victoria Beckham’s. In layman’s terms, Serum A-Glyca works to reverse and prevent the effects of bad eating habits on your skin. You know what happens when you don’t drink enough water and consume an excess of fried foods, dairy, oils, and sugar? Glycation. This is the process by which sugar molecules in your body bind themselves to the good stuff in your body that is responsible for suppleness and tone in your skin: proteins and lipids. Elle Magazine published a really informative piece on this in 2012, which I’ve linked here in this sentence. The best way to explain what happens next is to quote that article:
“When those proteins hook up with renegade sugars, they become discolored, weak, and less supple;
this shows up on the skin's surface as wrinkles, sagginess, and a loss of radiance.”
Yup. Now, glycation is a natural part of life and aging, and while it can’t be stopped, it can be slowed down by both dietary changes and (you got it) skincare.
About a year-ish before COVID, I presented to my aesthetician Andrew for a facial after several weeks of really going off the ledge with my diet. I was working out 5-6 times a week, so all the donuts and cakes and ice cream I was having didn’t really have any visible effect on my body, but I could see the difference in my skin - it just looked lackluster. It was during this facial that Andrew prescribed Serum A-Glyca and changed my life. Now I don’t advise anyone to “test” this out because it’s just sabotaging your body, but it took me maybe 2-3 weeks after that facial to reduce my sugar intake because my body had gotten used to it. But, I’d immediately started using Serum A-Glyca, and despite all the not-so-good dietary decisions I was still making, it started to work it’s magic. My skin felt plumper, it looked brighter, and less sallow. After I started treating my body and my skin well again, the effects were even more visible. Now I use Serum A-Glyca every night. Sometimes I give it a break during the summer months, but otherwise I use it at least throughout half the year.
Similar to Serum A-Glyca, Serums Amniotique and Matriciel Visage are two products I use all year round. Amniotique is an incomparable hydrating serum, and I love it especially during the wintertime. It’s really a good base/must-have serum that quietly works to keep your skin plump and happy with minimal effort. Matriciel Visage (there’s also a Matriciel for the body and yes, I use that too) is a targeted serum for lifting and toning. It’s different from the quintessential serums because it comes in a thicker, gel-like consistency, versus watery consistency. It works especially well to define your jawline, neck, décolleté, and cheekbones - I’ve been using this one since before I even started ZIIP, and regular use will get you that definition. I used to have really “thin” / “fragile” skin before I started my BR routine, and Matriciel Visage really helped get it to the level of firm and full it’s at now.
Step 7: Cremes & Finishing Serums
You have got to be thinking, FINALLY! (right? right). We’re almost there so I’ll keep it short and sweet. I’ve kind of lumped my face creams, eye creams, finishing serums, and finishing tools in one section because these are all heavy hitters and separating them out would be exhausting.
I’ll get right to it: I always have BR’s L’eauxygenante fully stocked, which means that I keep two full sizes on my vanity at all times, and the travel size in my bag. The best part about L’eauxygenante is that it also has active ingredients like any other BR product including sodium hyaluronate, niacinamide, hydrolyzed silk, and antioxidants. I’ve used this obsessively on flights and in airports, and typically use it after P50, before serums or at the end of my entire skincare routine. It’s refreshing and hydrating, and gives you an immediate glow if you need a pick-me-up.
For moisturizer, I’m currently using Emulsion Originelle Regenerante in the daytime, and Creme Hydravit’s for nighttime. Both are lightweight and perfect for warmer months. Originelle Regenerante comes in more of a milky, silky texture than Hydravit’s, and it creates the perfect base for applying make up (or not) because it sinks into your skin very quickly. Hydravit’s is richer, a true creme, and it comes in a texture that’s similar to Creme Masque Vernix - very lipid-y. I like to pat this in and wake up the next morning super lush and smooth. Speaking of which - my major skin problem is dehydration, so the products I use are focused on that and anti-aging. BR has a ton of products focused on other concerns such as oily skin, as well as texture, and pigmentation too, not just in their serums, but in their moisturizers too. There’s really something for everyone.
You would think that my damn skincare would be done after I slather on the moisturizer but alas, that’s not the case. I wouldn’t be a true skincare fan if I didn’t use an eye cream, nor would I be a BR fan if I didn’t use their finishing serums. I’m currently using the Skinbetter Science Interfuse Treatment Cream for my eyes, which has helped a lot with de-puffing my under eye bags. Packaging is also a huge plus factor for this one: I love the twist-up pump.
The two finishing serums I’ve been rotating are Serum Yall O2 (recently finished, need to reorder) and Silk Plus. I use one or the other both day and night and night - they kind of make me feel like I’m glazing my skin the way you would a doughnut, a proper closing ritual so to speak. The finishing serums are different from the authentic and targeted serums because they are designed specifically to stabilize the products you’ve already applied, and give that final finish. Each finishing serum has different effects, and some are thinner in consistency than others. Silk Plus is a great every day finishing serum for all skin types, especially sensitive skin types, and I love using it during Spring/Summer. Serum Yall O2 has insanely high concentration of hyaluronic acid - I use this on my face (heavy concentration: laugh lines), under eye, lips, neck, décolleté, basically everywhere. I’ve never gotten fillers, but I imagine this is what they would do, without the invasiveness of the process ya know? The first time I started using this I sent a few all-caps messages to my aesthetician because of how quick it worked. It’s seriously worth every penny and every drop.
Final Step: LED
LightStim for Wrinkles: The Ultimate Relaxation Tool
There comes a point in life when you sit back and think, “you know, my skin can’t really get better than this. That’s it, I’m good. I’m set.” That’s more or less how I’ve been handling my skincare these past few years - I haven’t watched a YouTube skincare routine with any genuine interest in going out and buying new products for a few years now, and I stopped endlessly scrolling through Net-a-Porter and Barneys (RIP!) for skincare too. That being said, innovation is cool, and I still like to keep myself updated even if I’m not going to divert from the brands I love and work for me.
BUT - big but - I’m always open to suggestions made by my aesthetician Andrew, and another product he introduced that totally changed the skincare game for me when I thought nothing could make it better was the LightStim LED light therapy stick.
Andrew always concludes my facials by putting me under this massive, super comforting LED light bubble, and the LightStim is the at-home version of that. AOnce I have all my serums and moisturizers on, I get into bed, plug this in, and just give my skin some good LED treatment while reading or just closing my eyes. The LightStim will beep to indicate when you should move on to another section of your face/neck/wherever, so you don’t have to time it. I use this basically everywhere, even my hands and scalp. It’s also easy to clean - just wipe with alcohol after use and stow away.
Using LighStim 4-5 days out of the week completely changed the level of how supple my skin was / is and I never imagined it would have that drastic of an effect - but hey, you learn something new every day.
…..and that, my friends, is how I conclude my full-on skincare routine.
